Introduction to Istria - New York Times / 1.19.26
 

Istria is a land of myth and magic, of glistening blue sea, vast green fields, and dark red earth. It is a triangle-shaped peninsula at the northwestern end of Croatia that protrudes just far enough into the Adriatic to catch the seductive Mediterranean climate and its sunshine, warm dry summers, and mild winters.Three sides of Istria's pine- and rosemary-scented landscape are lined with golden beaches and busy marinas, which in turn are festooned with Venetian-style towns that look just as they must have when tall trading ships sailed in and out of their harbors. Many nations have coveted and occupied Istria over the centuries, and it is remarkable that the peninsula has not become a confusing cultural hodgepodge. Rather, Istria has embraced the best of every country that contributed to its development through the ages. Here you will find people with an easygoing attitude, tolerance for diversity, a love of fine food and wine, and above all, a passion for the land and sea that is unsurpassed anywhere in Croatia. Even the most transient tourist will immediately recognize that Istrians have acquired Italian sensibilities without losing their Croatian souls. Many people here communicate with each other in a local dialect that is a lilting blend of Italian and Croatian, and most towns are known by both their Italian and Croatian names. Menus throughout the region read like catalog of fusion cuisine, making visitors wonder if they've made an inadvertent border crossing. The land in these parts sometimes tricks the mind into wondering if there's been a seismic shift. Most Istrian coastal towns are dead ringers for Italian fishing villages, and much of the inland landscape's velvety gray-green olive groves and miles of leafy vineyards could double as Tuscany. But when you get the bill for a meal or a hotel room, you'll know you're in Croatia and not Italy -- the cost of a week in Istria is well below the cost of the same week just across the Adriatic Sea. Istria shares a border with Slovenia to the north, but its roots also run through the depths of the Adriatic, which both links it to and separates it from Italy in a sometimes stormy relationship that is responsible for much of Istria's cachet. All this and a well-developed tourist infrastructure make Istria a desirable destination for anyone looking for vacation with a lot of variety. Croatia's tourist bureau color-codes Istria into blue (coastal) and green (inland) sectors. Most travelers gravitate to blue Istria, which contributes big numbers to the more than 2.5 million people -- mostly Europeans -- who visit Istria annually, a number that represents the largest single block of tourism in Croatia. Historical sites, natural beauty, accessibility, welcoming citizens, and an aura of romance lure the visitors.
Istria's past is rich with heroes, conquerors, statespeople, and myths, as well as agricultural and commercial tradition, all of which give every town and village a sense of drama smoothed with Mediterranean joie de vivre and seasoned with mystery.

Those who believe in legends say the Greek hero Jason, his Argonauts, and their sailing ship Argo took shelter in the Bay of Pula during their quest for the Golden Fleece. Those who believe in miracles say St. Euphemia and her stone sarcophagus somehow washed up on the shores of Rovinj shortly after disappearing from Constantinople in A.D. 800. Historians say Bronze Age tribes built primitive settlements in Istria's verdant hills and that an Illyrian tribe known as Histri gave its name to the land. There is no question that ancient Rome prospered from the trade that flowed through Istria's ports, lucrative profit centers coveted by numerous nations. Venice, Austria-Hungary, Italy, and others all vied for Istria until Marshal Tito declared "game over" and made offshore Brijuni his home. Istria has been through centuries of unrest, and its turbulent past could have resulted in a legacy of despair. Instead, hard times gave birth to tolerance and acceptance in an enchanting region that is geographically rich and historically significant, a can't-miss formula.